Author: Ewa Farjon, M.S.
Are cosmetics a woman's best friend? Diamonds may shine, but we count on cosmetics to make us look younger, prettier, and more attractive. And that's what brings us the diamonds. Like a true friend, cosmetics come through in the clutch, covering blemishes, highlighting features, and bewitching men. And is often is the case with best friends, we tend to ignore information that might put a friend in a bad light. However, when that information concerns hidden carcinogens in cosmetics, maybe it's time to pay attention.
What are these “hidden carcinogens”? They are chemicals that are not carcinogens by themselves. The danger occurs because these chemicals do not always remain in a safe and stable state. Instead, they can break down and release carcinogens, or they can have chemical reactions that result in carcinogens being formed. Sometimes, otherwise safe ingredients can be contaminated with carcinogens. These changes can take place while the product sits on the store’s shelf.
We have to keep in mind that the number of cancers has increased recently. For example from 1950-1988 breast cancer has increased by 60%, childhood cancer by 21%, and other cancers over 100%. This is why we should avoid exposure to carcinogens as much as possible, and unfortunately one source of carcinogens is cosmetics. The solution for the cosmetic industry is simple - avoid certain ingredients. But the lack of strict regulations within the industry means these ingredients are still used by most cosmetic companies. This places the responsibility on the customer to learn which ingredients should be avoided and why.
There are three different kinds of hidden carcinogens. Please take the time to read the labels on all your cosmetics and watch out for any of the following ingredients.
The first group of hidden carcinogens is chemicals that can break down to release the carcinogenic chemical formaldehyde. These chemicals include preservatives like Quaternium 15, DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl urea, Diazolidinyl urea, and Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate.
The second group of hidden carcinogens is nitrosamine precursors. They have a tendency to react with nitrate and form a nitrosamine known as NDELA (N-nitrosodiethanolamine), which is highly carcinogenic. Keep in mind that nitrate will generally not be listed on a label, since it could be introduced into the mix as either a contaminant or used as a preservative in raw materials. To this group belong TEA (Triethyloamine), TEA derivatives, Cocamidopropyl betaine, DEA (Diethanolamine) and DEA derivatives.
So far there is no way a customer can find out if the product is contaminated with the potent carcinogen NDEA. Let’s take the advice from Prof. Dr. Samuel S. Epstein, M.D. from Cancer Prevention Coalition: “The best approximation is determining whether the cosmetic contains DEA." The following cosmetic ingredients are among those contaminated with DEA:
Cocamide DEA or Cocamide Diethanolamine
DEA Lauryl Sulfate or Diethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate
Lauramide DEA or Lauramide Diethanolamine
Linoleamide DEA or Linoleamide Diethanolamine
Oleamide DEA or Oleamide Diethanolamine
Any product containing TEA or Triethanolamine”
The third group of “hidden carcinogens” is represented mostly by ingredients containing ethoxylated alcohols surfactants or detergents (like polysorbates or laureths) which are contaminated during the manufacturing process with volatile 1,4-dioxane (dioxane). Customers should avoid cosmetics containing ethoxylated alcohols. These chemicals contain ingredients with the words (or prefixes) PEG, Polyethylene, Polyoxyethylene, -eth (like Sodium Laureth Sulfart). Customers should avoid products with Cetereths, Nonoxynol, Octoxynol, Oleths, Polysorbates. What is very alarming is that many childrens' products, especially bubble baths and shampoos, are contaminated with 1,4-dioxane (dioxane).
In keeping with the analogy from the opening paragraph, we should be careful when choosing our friends. Why pal with someone who doesn't have our best interests at heart? Likewise, our health is in our hands. Since the cosmetics industry doesn't have strict regulations, we have to look out for ourselves and avoid certain ingredients.
There's a saying that goes, “history likes to repeat itself.” Current attitudes in the cosmetics industry are very similar to those once held by the tobacco industry. It wasn't so long ago that cigarette companies could run advertisements with physicians endorsing smoking (the 1940s). In 1997, Senator Edward M. Kennedy stated at Hearings on the FDA Reform Bill that, “the cosmetics industry has borrowed a page from the playbook of the tobacco industry by putting profits ahead of public health.” Hopefully we won’t have to wait as long as with tobacco before customers will know the truth about all cosmetics ingredients and we have strict regulations.
Ewa Farjon, M.S., has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 2001, and has years of experience in the cosmetics industry as a formulation chemist.
Today, she utilizes her knowledge and skills to develop natural, holistic products without harsh chemicals for her own company, Gems & Herbs. Ms. Farjon is also an international speaker and SPA consultant. More information may be found at About Us.
