Author: Ewa Farjon, M.S.
How many times have you asked yourself whether a certain cosmetic is really natural, or if it just pretending to be people and earth-friendly? You're not alone. Many people are confused about the term “natural cosmetics.” This is not surprising, since so far, the Food and Drug Administration does not have a strict definition for the term “natural.” Because of this, many cosmetics companies advertise their products as being natural, even though their cosmetics are just “dusted” with a few natural ingredients. And, more important, many of these so-called “natural” cosmetics actually contain ingredients that are harmful to both the body and the earth.
So how can you know which products are truly natural, and therefore, good for your skin and for the environment, and which are not? The best way is to read the list of ingredients, and to be familiar with which ingredients are really good for your skin, and which are harmful. It is also very important to be aware of the order in which cosmetic ingredients are listed on the label.
According to FDA regulations, ingredients must be listed in order from largest to smallest amounts used -- unless the quantity of the ingredient is 1% or less, in which case, the ingredients may be listed in any order.
Let's use jojoba oil as an example. In the right quantity, this is a great moisturizer. But how much jojoba oil is used in this particular product? It is not enough to have the “right” ingredients. These right ingredients must be used in amounts that really work. If you see jojoba oil near the end of the list of ingredients, chances are that only a tiny amount was used, and it was for labeling purposes only.
If you are buying online, check the company’s website for an ingredients lists of their products. The companies that sell truly natural products will be comfortable publishing their lists of ingredients. But, don’t be shocked if there is a flowery description of how wonderful the product is, followed by the word “contains,” and just a few of the (natural, of course!) ingredients contained.
One reason why all of a skin product’s ingredients should be listed on websites and labels is that so many people today have allergies. It is not enough for cosmetics to be “hypoallergenic.” Many people have allergies to ingredients that are totally natural, such as honey or beeswax. So, being open about their products’ ingredients is just another way a company can show that it truly cares about its customers.
In order to choose the right product, you should know what to pay attention to when you read the label. Some companies do not obey the FDA’s labeling rules, but instead, add descriptions that they think will entice you to buy their products.
A few examples of misleading terms used on labels:
“Sodium Laureth Sulfate (coconut derived).” Sodium Laureth Sulfate is a harsh detergent that should not be used in natural products even though it is derived from coconut. Some manufacturers want you to think that because of the words “coconut derived,” the ingredient is natural. It is not.
Another example: Many products contain the description: “Infusion of organic herbs,” followed by a long list of botanicals. So many herbs will be beneficial, right? Not necessarily. For a comparable example, if you add a bag of peppermint tea to a cup of hot water, you will make an infusion. But if you add the same bag of peppermint tea to a gallon of hot water, or to 5 gallons of hot water, technically it will still be an infusion, but you won't benefit from it. The problem is, when you see the words “herbal infusion,” you don’t know how concentrated the infusion is. As I pointed out before, it is not enough to use the right ingredients; they must be used in the right amounts if they are to benefit us.
One more point: In studies, parabens have been linked to breast cancer, so many women avoid cosmetics that contain them. Sometimes you will find information like this: “This product contains less than 0.25% parabens.” Even though this amount seems small, you should still be concerned. The real problem with parabens is not with the amount used, but with the fact that these chemicals can penetrate the skin and, over time, will accumulate in the body’s tissue. This can be especially serious if you use several of these products on your skin, each one containing a so-called “small” amount of parabens!
It is impossible to give you a full list of mislabeling, but you got some examples so you will know what to pay attention to.
You also should know which ingredients are harmful and should be avoided in skincare and haircare products, but this is a very big subject and it is impossible to cover this now. For more information please check our Articles and Glossary sections, which are regularly updated.
Creating skincare and hair care products that are truly natural and good for your skin is costly. This is why so many cosmetics companies look for ways to cut corners, while still giving the impression that their products are natural and good for you. The only way to make SURE you are buying products that are truly natural is to buy only from a company you can trust – one that’s committed to health and beauty, and – like Gems & Herbs -- proudly lists its natural ingredients on all its labels and on its website.
Ewa Farjon, M.S., has been a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 2001, and has years of experience in the cosmetics industry as a formulation chemist.
Today, she utilizes her knowledge and skills to develop natural, holistic products without harsh chemicals for her own company, Gems & Herbs. Ms. Farjon is also an international speaker and SPA consultant. More information may be found at About Us.
